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Mechanical problems can usually be fixed with parts and time. Rust repair, on the other hand, is labor-intensive, and a car that looks great in photos can hide a very expensive problem underneath.
Bring the right tools
A bright flashlight, a small magnet and a pair of gloves go a long way. A magnet will not stick to thick body filler, which is a clue that a panel has been repaired. Do not press hard on paint, but a gentle test in a few discreet spots can tell you plenty.
Look in the usual places
Rust tends to start where moisture collects. Check the lower edges of the doors, the rocker panels, the fender bottoms near the wheels, the trunk floor and the corners of the trunk, the area around the windshield and rear window, and the spot where the quarter panels meet the rear wheel arches. Pull back the carpet and look at the floor pans, then look at the underside, paying attention to frame rails, suspension mounts, and the area around the rear axle.
Know the warning signs
Bubbling paint is usually rust coming from beneath. Uneven panel gaps may point to previous accident or rust repair. Overspray on rubber seals or trim can suggest a quick repaint. Fresh undercoating on an old car can be protective, but it can also hide problems, so ask why it was applied.
Surface rust vs. structural rust
Light surface rust on bare metal is common and manageable. Rust that has eaten through metal, or that affects the frame, unibody structure, suspension mounting points or door pillars, is a different story. Structural repairs can cost more than the car is worth.
Get a second opinion
If you are serious about a car, a pre-purchase inspection with the car on a lift is the best way to see what you cannot see in a driveway. If the car is a project, our piece on whether to restore it or leave it original can help you plan the work.
Be ready to walk
There will always be another car. A cheap purchase price does not mean much if the repair bill doubles it.
